Kingsbarns to St Andrews
Rain fell in the night and continued through the day, accompanied by a stiff easterly wind. The path switched between the beach and the edge of the splendid golf courses.
St Andrews in the distance
Then, near St Andrews, it alternated between the beach and the cliff face, an undulating, energy-sapping roller coaster on stones made slippery by waves and raindrops. The wind and rain intensified as I plodded grimly into St Andrews, heading for the Visitor Information Centre. There I asked about accommodation further ahead at Guardhouse and Leuchars. The staff consulted each other before looking at their booklets and computer screen. They seemed to know how to access sources of information, but they appeared to have no local knowledge between their ears. After several minutes I was not much wiser, but I took the offered brochures and made a few phone calls without response. I decided to try my luck in St Andrews and walked to a B&B I’d seen on the way in. Margaret Coull, retired teacher and wildlife photographer, took me in, and I spent a very satisfactory evening and night in her interesting old house, leaving only to brave the weather for beer and a meal. All night the rain fell steadily.