Pennine Way 2013

Friday 19th April 2013 – Hawes to Muker

No need to hurry, especially when there’s a dusting of snow on the hills. After a leisurely breakfast and lots of laughter with our hosts, we strolled to Hardraw and slowly ascended Great Shunner Fell.

The overnight snow had melted, and the sun put in a hazy appearance. The strong winds of previous days were gone. Our uphill haul passed in a long and gentle amble with many stops to enjoy the solitude. The only sounds were the calls of curlew, skylark and meadow pipit, and the gentle soughing of the cool breeze.

We ate lunch at the summit. I glanced round for litter and couldn’t find any – things were looking up! Southbound walkers came sweating uphill as we descended the slabbed route and the rocky road into Swaledale. Sheep farmers were preoccupied with lambing duties as we passed by to wander carefree between the houses of Thwaite.

We’d expected this to be an easy day, and so it proved. In bright sunshine we climbed Kisdon for the glorious retrospect of Thwaite and the classic view of the fields and barns of Swaledale. Down in Muker we checked into our comfortable B&B at Chapel House and enjoyed a memorable evening of beer and food just a few steps away at the excellent Farmers Arms.


Thwaite and Great Shunner Fell from Kisdon


Thwaite from Kisdon


Swaledale from Kisdon

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