Stottie Walks

We drove through clearing mist to Trows, from where I steadily made my way to the ridge. The wind was fierce, and it soon became obvious that I was to cop one of the forecast wintry showers. I waited in the partial shelter of a peat hag, my back to the blast and sat tight until the hail abated.

At the path junction where some turn right to visit the summit of The Cheviot, I turned left. The boardwalks here were being replaced by paving. The timber was slippery, the wind stronger than ever. At Auchope Cairn I exchanged greetings with a day hiker before dropping steeply to the refuge hut. A young woman who had spent the night there on her southbound trek was making a late start, burdened by a huge rucksack. I pressed on, keen to climb my last summit, The Schil, and romp to Kirk Yetholm where my reception committee were already assembling.

The wind on The Schil was the strongest of my entire walk. Thankfully, it blew from my left rather than in my face, but it threw me off balance three or four times. Descending to calmer conditions, I skirted Black Hag and went straight down the Halterburn valley. I raised my pace and passed a large party of hikers going my way. It seemed a long haul to the metalled road and the annoying little hill that has to be climbed before the end comes into view, but by 1600hrs I was rolling down to the village. A pre-reception committee of local hikers, briefed by Mick and Karen, gave me an unexpected round of applause. As I reached Kirk Yetholm’s large village green Mick was summoning Karen, Pam, Cedric and George the dog to greet me with a bottle of champagne.

Things got a little hazy after that: a lot of beer was involved, and my friends decided they’d stay the night. We five sat down to dinner and were joined by Kathryn, the LEJOG walker I’d met at Byrness. Margaret and her staff looked after us very well that night and served us a hearty breakfast. Mick dropped me off at Berwick Rail Station, and with a large measure of reluctance I re-entered the noisy world that most people consider normal.

Russell’s Cairn and The Cheviot

Tilted boardwalk on Cairn Hill, with replacement slabs in waiting

At Auchope Cairn, looking into Scotland

Hen Hole, a rare rocky cleft in the smooth-sided Cheviot Hills

On the long descent into the Halterburn valley

The end of the Way – Border Hotel at Kirk Yetholm

Village Green at Kirk Yetholm

Next morning, and I need walk only as far as Mick’s van…until the next time! (Photo: Karen Lane)

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